Draft Control



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Draft Control On A Tractor

During that time, draft controls were used primarily to control excess draft from tall chimneys and lower excess air to conserve fuel. (Heating oil was 25¢ a gallon in 1964!) Additional benefits included more reliable burner performance, reduced burner emissions, and increased safety by tripping a boiler off line if the draft turned positive. Draft control is the automatic adjustment of the three-point hitch when using tillage equipment such as a moldboard plow, ripper or cultivator. This can either be done by sensing the amount of forward pressure on the three-point top link, called top link sensing, or by sensing the rearward pull on the lower links called lower link sensing.

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Draft Control Door

What is 'Draft Control'?

AlI gather from this site that draft control somehow keeps a rear implement (presumably a plough or tiller) at the same height below ground. Is that right?

Do all yannies have it? Some models? None unless after-market? How do they work? If they are after-market, how much does one cost?

Similarly, I've seen ads for a quick-attach, a heavy fitting I mount to the back hitch so I can attach/detach my blade, belly mower, tree spade, wood chipper, etc., without getting off the seat. Do they really work that well? Are some models better than others? Thanks.

mattal this not a after-market It came on the tractor,I ordered a owner's manual from hoya tractor and it list and show's the draft control lever but does not tell what it does.I talked to a dealer here and they say it so the implement can lift up when it hit's anything to hard to plow throught or till,not all yanmar have them that I can tell I've read just about all I can find, but that does'nt mean much,still looking for more information,if I find anything more will let you know also the dealer said they work well with a blade if your in rocky soil thanks
teeceeRoughly speaking, draft control would control the depth that a mounted implement like a chisel plow, turning plow or subsoiler will run. It would also keep wheel spin at a minimum. It mesures how much resistance is encountered by pulling the implement. As the ground becomes harder or softer, it senses this and adjusts the depth of the implement to keep the pull constant. It would keep the plow from going too deep. Ideally, you would set the draft control so the limit of traction & horsepower is reached. As the pull on the implement increases, it will be raised or lowered. Some tractors sense the pull through the top link and some through the lower draft links. I have a 1610D; it does not have draft control. It could be activated by a rear mount grader blade; a tiller should not do so as it usually is pushing the tractor. The draft control dates back to the old Fords, not sure about the 9N, but I believe the 8N had it. Without draft control, you sort of set the depth you desire to run and when the soil texture changes or you go over a ridge or down a swale, the plow either comes out or goes too deep causing wheel spin. This was one of Ford's better ideas, really Mr. Ferguson's.
SmittyDraft control monitors the amount of strain on the lift arms (some draft controls are mounted on the lower arms and some are mounted in front of the top link)- if you're pulling a disc harrow and hit soft soil the disc will want to dig in deaper and this action will cause more pressure on the lift arms and top link, when the control senses more pressure it automatically adjust the lift arms up - usually you cannot even see this movement with your eyes it's so minimal. Draft control works really well but with much practice you can do the same thing with the three point lift lever - just takes a lot of time in the seat. Most compact tractors do not come with draft control.
Sorry, I cannot provide much info on the quick attach hardware. I do not have one nor do I want one - again much practice will make attaching/detaching implements much easier. Not to mention if the implement is pto driven you still have to get off to connect the PTO.
Sounds like you're new to tractors...if so, my advice is to work with what you have and depending on how many hours you spend in the seat, you'll know in six months to a year what you need to spend your money on.

Good Luck, and welcome to the best yammer-hammer forum on the net.
Smitty


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